Thirteen hairpin bends above a glittering sea, laundry swaying over lemon groves, and a spritz that somehow tastes better at golden hour — the Amalfi Coast is everything the postcards promise, and then some.
I based myself in a tiny family-run guesthouse in Praiano, ten minutes by bus from postcard-perfect Positano but half the price and twice as calm. Every morning started with a warm sfogliatella from the bakery below and a debate about which village deserved the day.
By the end of the week I had a favourite swimming cove, a favourite nonna (hers makes the best scialatielli), and a camera roll I still scroll through when I need cheering up. Here is how the week unfolded.
Moments I’ll keep forever
Sunset at Marina di Praia
A pebble cove tucked between cliffs, with a candlelit seafood shack right on the water. We swam until the sky turned apricot, then ate anchovies and grilled calamari with our feet still sandy.
The Path of the Gods hike
From Bomerano to Nocelle the trail floats above the coastline. Go early, carry water, and accept that you will stop every four minutes for photos. The stair descent into Positano is 1,700 steps of pure theatre.
Ravello’s quiet gardens
While Positano crowds peaked, Ravello sat cool and calm above it all. Villa Cimbrone’s Terrace of Infinity genuinely silenced our whole group — the sea just keeps going.
The slow itinerary
Days 1–2Positano & the water
Arrive, climb every staircase twice, and take the ferry to Amalfi town so you see the cliffs from the sea — it is the single best orientation to the coast and costs less than lunch.
Days 3–4Praiano, swims & slow evenings
Claim a sunbed at Marina di Praia, kayak to hidden grottos in the morning, and spend evenings in Praiano’s piazza where the spritz is four euros and the view is free.
Days 5–7Ravello, hikes & lemons
Walk the Path of the Gods, tour a lemon grove above Minori, and finish with a long farewell dinner in Ravello as the lights flicker on down the coast.
Good to know before you go
- Ride the SITA buses or ferries instead of driving — the SS163 is beautiful and terrifying in equal measure.
- Book cliff-view dinners for 7:30pm to catch the full sunset performance.
- Carry cash for beach clubs and tiny kiosks; many still shrug at cards.
Written by Sophie
Slow traveller, sunrise chaser and firm believer that the wrong turn is usually the right one. I write honest guides from the road — no press trips, no filters, just notes I’d send a friend.
